leopard gecko

The leopard gecko, (Eublepharis macularius), has been captive-bred in the United States for more than 30 years and is one of the most commonly kept lizards today. These hardy saurians come in a variety of colors, patterns and sizes. This is a great species for the home. Imagine a lizard that can vocalize and wash an eye with its tongue with ease. There is a friendly dinosaur in this small package.
Availability
Captive-bred leopard geckos can be found in pet stores, at reptile shows and on the Internet. Many breeders have websites where you can learn about, select and purchase healthy leopards, which range in price from $20 to $3,000. There is a huge collector market worldwide for the rarer variations of leopard geckos.
Size
Hatchlings measure 3 to 4 inches long. Adult females are typically 7 to 8 inches, and males are 8 to 10 inches. Some males of the giant bloodlines reach nearly a foot.
Life Span
Leopard geckos are long-lived compared to some reptiles. On average you can expect your gecko to live six to 10 years, but many males live 10 to 20 years. At least one male is still breeding at 28 years of age in my colony.
Caging
A 10- to 20-gallon aquarium houses one or two leopard geckos from hatchling to adult size. Larger tanks tend to cause the geckos to stray away from their proper heat and hide box. Although visibility is reduced, many people use plastic storage boxes as housing. Any cage you choose should be at least 1 foot tall. Be sure to have a secure screen top on your gecko cage that will support a light fixture, provide good ventilation and keep out bothersome cats.A hide box filled with moist moss or vermiculite is needed, so your leopard gecko can shed its skin properly. This secure setting also is needed for egg laying if you plan on breeding geckos.Live or artificial plants can be added for a nice decorative touch.
Lighting and Temperature
The best way to heat your leopard gecko is by using an undertank heating pad or tape. These are available at any pet store or online. Heating one end of the cage is best. This allows for a temperature variation that your lizard needs. Heat rocks tend to become too hot for leopard geckos and should be avoided due to the risk of burns.For viewing, a simple low-wattage light can be placed overhead on the screen-cage top and left on 12 hours a day.Because leopard geckos are active at night (notice their vertical pupils), they do not need to bask under a special UVB light.Albino leopard geckos are light-sensitive for the first few months of their lives, but they do fine as a pet.The ideal temperature in the hide box is 86 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. The ambient air temperature of the room they are housed in should be above 73 degrees.
Substrate
Newspaper, pea gravel, artificial turf, flat stones or no floor covering are OK. A young or debilitated leopard gecko might consume sand or fine-particle products on the cage floor, and this could lead to intestinal impaction.Leopard geckos actually have a "bathroom" in one corner of their cages, and that area can be spot-cleaned without disrupting the entire system.Do not expose your gecko to commercial plant soils or sands that may contain fertilizer or pesticides.
Food
Live insects are a must for your gecko; they do not eat plants or veggies. The best items to use are mealworms or crickets, but you can treat your pet to waxworms or superworms once a week if you wish. We have used regular mealworms (Tenebrio molitor) without health issues for since 1978. Avoid feeding leopard geckos pinky mice.All insects must be first given a nutritious powdered diet for at least 12 hours before being fed to your leopard gecko. This process is called “gut loading,” and it is very important to the health of your pet. Chick or hog mash is available at all feed stores, and several good commercial diets are available for this purpose, as well. Simply place the insects in a tub of gut-load diet with a piece of potato to serve as a source of water.Dusting your insects is one way to deliver important vitamins and minerals to your leopard gecko. Insects and the dusting powder can be placed in a plastic bag or deep tin can, and shook gently to coat the insects’ bodies. When adding the dusted insects to the cage, be sure not to let the powder get into a gecko’s eyes.Another way to give the extra powdered supplements to your gecko is to keep a small jar lid filled with vitamin-mineral powder at all times. The gecko knows how much its body needs, and it will lick up the powder accordingly.Keepers can offer two appropriately sized insects for every inch of a leopard gecko’s total length. A meal every other day is fine. Therefore, a 4-inch-long gecko would receive eight mealworms three to four times a week
It is normal for leopard geckos to eat their shed skin.
Water
A shallow water dish with fresh water must be available at all times. It should also be stable, so it cannot be spilled. Cage substrate should be kept dry, so be careful about spillage. Make sure that young and adult leopard geckos can climb easily out of the dish you use. Vitamin drops should not be added to the water.
Handling and Temperament
In general, do not handle leopard geckos on a regular basis until they settle in and are more than 6 inches in total length. Once your gecko is large enough, it is best to sit on the floor, and let your gecko crawl through loose fingers and hand-over-hand for 10 to 15 minutes per day until they are accustomed to your touch. This taming process takes only five to seven days. Never grab or hold the gecko’s tail, or it might be dropped. Often the tail regenerates in less than 40 days.

Mexican Flame Knee Tarantula

Home / Other Pests / Spiders
Flame Knee Tarantula
Apart from characteristic red flame markings, it can be difficult to distinguish the Brachypelma auratum, or Mexican flame knee tarantula, from the Brachypelma smithi, or Mexican redknee tarantula. Commonly mistaken for one another, these arachnids have long been thought to be the same species. Both are black in color with accentuated, lighter edges and markings on the leg joints. Both also share a docile nature and a long lifespan.
However, while the redknee tarantula bears orange or yellow markings, the flame knee tarantula exhibits only red markings. These red markings take the shape of flames and are located at the right of the patella. Flame knee tarantulas also bear a white, horizontal stripe near these markings. Adult flame knee tarantulas may reach a leg span of six inches.
The flame knee tarantula is famous for its longevity, living up to 20 years. However, growth for the young is slow and maturation may take as long as five years to complete. As is true of a number of arachnid species, females are larger than males.
Flame knee tarantulas are rarely aggressive but will attack when provoked. They possess a painful bite, as well as urticating hairs. These arachnids consume cockroaches, grasshoppers and crickets. They may also prey upon small mice and other flame knee tarantulas.

Brazillian Rainbow Boa

When researching snakes, I have often read that the Brazilian rainbow boa makes a poor choice for a pet snake, due to their unruly temperament. Allow me to contradict that notion. I believe that the “BRB” can make a wonderful pet snake, as long as you know how to care for it properly.
Granted, the Brazilian rainbow boa is not as easy to care for as a corn snake, kingsnake or some of the other popular species found in the pet trade. But with a bit of research and preparation, you can provide a great home for a Brazilian rainbow boa. And with regular handling (like two or three times a month), they can become as “tame” as most other snake species common in the pet trade.

These snakes are not as hard to care for as some books and articles would lead you to believe. Humidity is more of a concern with the Brazilian rainbow boa than it is for other popular pet snake species, but even that’s manageable. I already explained how I keep a moisture box in my rainbow’s cage. That and the constant presence of a water bowl is generally all you need to meet the humidity needs of this species.
Here is some more information on Brazilian rainbow boa care and keeping:
Recommended cage size: At least four feet of cage length for adults. The 4′ x 2′ Vision cages are perfect for this species.
Temperature: I give my rainbow a temperature gradient of about 88 degrees on the warm side and upper 70s on the cool side. I run the heat constantly and let the natural cooling of my house provide nighttime cycle.
Feeding: I feed my Brazilian rainbow boa a medium to large rat every 10 days or so. He is a healthy size, but not overweight (yes, snakes can become obese just like humans can). He is always ready for his next meal when it comes, which is the way I like it. I offer rats that are about the same size as his mid-section, or slightly larger.
Humidity: Everything I have read suggests that Brazilian rainbow boas are susceptible to dehydration when maintained in the U.S. and other non-native areas. It only makes sense, these snakes are native to Brazil, Venezuela and Suriname — countries with fairly high humidity most of the year. Try to maintain one in a dry area like Arizona without adding humidity in some way, and the snake will eventually suffer. It’s an easy fix, though. Just keep a moisture box in the cage, a humidifier in the room, or a combination of the two.
Lighting: Not needed. These snakes are nocturnal and will hide for the better part of the day. My snake room has a window that allows for a natural light cycle. That’s all the light I need for the Brazilian rainbow boa. I do not have a light on his cage like I do with my diurnal snakes.
Water: Keep a bowl of clean, fresh water in your snake’s cage at all times. Clean the bowl thoroughly about once a week to prevent bacteria from building up. This is a good rule of thumb for any pet snake, actually.
Handling: I handle my Brazilian rainbow boa about every 10 days or so, whenever I clean his cage. In my opinion, anything more than that is excessive. These snakes become pretty docile with this kind of regular handling, but I still would not let a child hold my rainbow boa as I would a corn snake or gopher snake. In my experience, these snakes do best when they are handled by a calm individual. They can be jumpy when there’s a lot of movement, as when a child is handling them.

This is from iReptile Rescue, please be responsible with your reptile.

Sumatran Blood Python

Common name(s): Blood Pythons, Red blood python, Malaysian blood pythonLatin name: Python brongersmaiNative to: Peninsular (Western) Malaysia, Sumatra east of the central dividing range of mountains, Bangka Island and other islands in the Strait of Malacca, including the Lingga islands, Riau islands, and Pinang. Most blood pythons in US collection are from central Sumatra.Adult size: 5/7 feet
Life Span: Over 20 Years But Much More In Captivity
Eggs or young: average clutch 18-30 eggs.
Appearance: The Sumatra Blood Python gets its name from the blood red color that washes over its skin. They are also dusted in light yellows and oranges and have thick bodies, perfect for constricting.
A snake of medium length with huge girth relative to its length. The head is long and broad and distinctly wider than the neck. The anterior half of the body appears to us as pale with dark pattern, while the posterior appears as dark with pale pattern. There is a black postocular stripe and in some populations there are black lateral blotches on the sides. There is much variation of color in individuals and in populations. The dark elements of the pattern may be red, orange-red, oxblood, brown, tan or yellow. Blood pythons are without red coloration at hatching and appear as predominantly tan with black markings. Blood pythons attain their adult colors usually between to and three years of age. At three and four years of age the coloration of blood pythons is at its zenith.In the wild: The Sumatra Blood Python, in the wild, can be found in the vast rice fields and plains of Sumatra, Cambodia, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. They aren't rare animals and can be found frequently in the wild if you look in the right places. They are good hunters, feeding on mice and rats and rabbits and all number of small mammals in the rice fields and grasslands of Sumatra. However, the Pythons themselves are also hunted by people for their skin and meat.
What does it eat? Most pythons and boas are fed once a week. Be warned that they might be picky eaters; some of them will only eat with the lights out and some of them have to "hunt" their prey first, although it is best to feed them killed, frozen prey to avoid injury or parasite infection to your snake.
Ease of care: Average
Temperament:Sumatra Blood Pythons do have variable temperaments however; while some can be quite calm and docile, others are high-strung, nervous, and quick to bite. Cage set up: At all ages, blood pythons require a secure well-ventilated cage. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) can make a satisfactory cage for a young specimen. Plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, also can be used to maintain blood pythons. Some of the commercially available PVC, polyethylene, ABS plastic or fiberglass cages probably best accommodate the large size and bulk of adult blood pythons. We initially place hatchlings in a small enclosure with about 40 square inches of floor space; we have found that often, if placed in too large an enclosure, a hatchling may be insecure and fail to feed. Once regular feeding begins, this species will quickly require a larger space, and should then be moved to cages with 180 - 300 square inches of floor space. By two years of age, most blood pythons will require a cage with 6 -12 square feet of floor space. One of the most common mistakes made in keeping this python is to not provide a suitably large cage for the adults.
Substrate: I keep mine on newspaper substrate
Personal Comments: An exciting and stunning snake, the Sumatra Blood Python is a breathtaking animal and a fascinating pet!
Sumatran Blood Pythons are large snakes – growing to an average of six feet long and topping off at around nine feet. Although they are not usually seen growing larger than seven feet, it is possible to obtain a larger size in captivity, so be warned. The Sumatra Blood Python is an awe-inspiring snake, one that will certainly capture the imaginations of you and your guests. If you aren't an experienced snake keeper, you may want to try an easier, more predictable species at first; the Sumatra Blood Python is a very large, and often aggressive snake that should only be kept by experienced hobbyists. You will want to raise this one from childhood. Capturing one or purchasing one that has lived in the wild is a bad idea, as the snakes may be excessively unhealthy or aggressive. If you get a baby, and raise it from birth, it'll be more likely to become handleable and get used to you than one taken from the wild.

African Fat Tail Gecko

This African Fat Tail Gecko, is the latest addition to iReptile Rescue, and thanks to all who support iReptile Rescue.

Tokay geckos are attractive physically and draw hobbyists to them based on sight alone. That’s unfortunate because the Tokay gecko’s attitude doesn’t match its good looks. If you think a nocturnal lizard that’s definitely not a hands-on pet is suitable, this is an otherwise hardy gecko to consider.
A very tall heavily-planted cage is in order for a tokay gecko because they walk walls easily and will fully utilize the vertical space. They like to cling to tree trunks, but also frequent the walls of human structures. They do this to catch insects that proliferate in the vicinity of man; cockroaches are among the prey items they are particularly fond of. For that reason, some people in southern Florida have released them on their homes to control pests. In captivity, they’ll also gobble up other large bugs, and many can be trained to accept pinkie mice.
Tokay geckos come from forests where rainfall is abundant. Spraying the entire cage with a fine jet of water several times per week is necessary to keep them from drying out and as a source of drinking water as it runs down leaves and branches. They like it warm too, so 65 degrees Fahrenheit is about as low as they should experience in a cage, and only overnight until it once again warms back up into at least the 70s.

Pinktoe tarantula

Interested in adopting this pinktoe tarantuls, call me at 619-971-6672. ireptile rescue has other reptiles to be re-homed, perfect for the holidays. I have leopard geckos, an african fat tail gecko, an iguana, a pastel red tail, and a baby mexican red knee tarantula.

African Fat Tail Gecko

This beautiful African Fat Tail Gecko is up for adoption. I can be reached at 619-971-6672

Pinktoe tarantula

This is the pinktoe tarantula that needs to be re-homed, if interested, call me at 619-971-6672.

Cancun Mexico iReptile Rescue.

This is home to one of the Mexican Boas.

Reptile rescue, honduran rat snake

This little beauty, is so lovable, on e of my favorites.

Brazillian Rainbow Boa

This is one of the snakes at iReptile Rescue, these snakes are very beautiful reptiles.

iReptile Rescue's newest rescue.

I just took in a new iguan, who is a litlle malnutritioned, but should be back to health by Christmas, and ready to be re-homed. I'm in San Diego, and if you want to adopt this Iguana for Chrismas, for a child, give me a call at 619-971-6672. Happy Holidays from Cisko Mclovin and Family, here at iReptile Rescue.

Brown Widow

Brown Widow Spider (Latrodectus Geometricus)
The brown widow is one of five United States species of the widow family. It is primarily found in Florida. It is venomous, and has a neurotoxin like that of the black widow. Although it injects less venom than the black widow.Venom
Brown widow venom is primarily a neurotoxin, which as a rule does not cause local tissue death and destruction. Best known for widespread muscle spasm and often mimics that of a severe abdominal problem i.e. acute appendicitis, or ruptured ovarian cyst.
The initial bite is very painful, but can go unnoticed. The surface of the skin may display two red bite wounds, one, or none. The worst pain is in the first 8-12 hours, symptoms may continue for several days.
All children, pregnant women and individuals with hypertension should be admitted to a hospital.
Antivenom is available.
Treatment in an Outdoor Setting:
Clean and irrigate the wound.
Application of ice or cool compresses.
Pain medication, muscle relaxants if available.
Transport immediately.

Brown Widow

This is the brown widow I found in my backyard.

Brown Widow

This is the Brown Widow that I found in my backyard.

Western Pennsylvania Reptile Expo

The Western Pennsylvania Reptile Expo is this Sunday, August 2nd and then again on October 18th and December 6th, 2009 at the Mars VFW Hall, located at 323 Mars-Valencia Road, Mars, PA 16046. The Expo is from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. Cost for admission is $4.00 per person and children 5 years old or younger are admitted for free. More info can be found at www.wparepexpo.com or by calling (724)991-6658. At the Expo you can see and select from thousands of reptiles, amphibians, arachnids, feeder foods, habitats, novelty items and more. All...

Red Tail Boa

Red-tail Boa Constrictor - Boa constrictor constrictor

In the wild, the red-tailed boa lives in a wide range of habitats, from high cloud forests to dry low lands. It is also frequently found near towns, where it preys on the rats and mice that often accompany populated areas. The red-tailed boa also feeds on other small mammals, amphibians, lizards, other snakes and birds. There are several subspecies of boa constrictor (species name boa constrictor) that are found in the pet trade. Red tailed boas (Boa constrictor constrictor) are commonly found in the pet trade

Before committing to ownership of a boa constrictor, be sure you will be able to handle the size and strength of a full grown snake for the 25-30 years your snake might live. A full grown boa constrictor (red tailed) will reach 8-10 feet long and weigh up to 50 pounds. These are very muscular and thick bodied snakes. While generally quite docile in temperament, it is important to respect the inherent strength of these animals and that could inflict serious injury to a person. I would consider this an advanced handler pet. Unless you have had snakes before and are committed your pets health AND have appropriate space available to cage an animal this size - do not buy one. Additionally - small dogs and cats are prey to an adult red tail boa - remember this.

DO NOT FEED WILD MICE/RATS ETC OR SUCH ANIMALS FOUND AROUND THE HOUSE – THEY MAY CARRY DISEASES AND PESTICIDES THAT COULD BE DEADLY TO YOUR PET

Average Size - The average hatchling is about 16-18 inches long, and adults can pretty easily reach 10 feet and 50+ pounds.

Life Span - On average 20 - 30 years.

Diet - Primarily rodents such as mice and rats - full grown adults can eat rabbits.

Feeding - They only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy mice every 5-7 days, older snakes should be fed increasingly larger prey and can go a little longer (i.e. 10 - 14 days). Use pre-killed prey as live rodents can injure a snake - dangling the prey in front of the snake with forceps usually gets the snake interested. Adults will need to feed on rats and even rabbits!

If your snake stops eating, carefully examine the husbandry, handling, health, and environment of the snake to make sure stress isn't the culprit. Consult a knowledgeable vet or experienced keeper for help if the fast is prolonged or causing weight loss. If necessary, some tricks to entice a boa to eat include dipping the prey in chicken broth, trying different colors of prey, exposing the brain of the prey before feeding it, feeding at night, covering the cage with towels after offering a mouse.

Housing - Young red tail boas (16-28 inches) will do pretty good in a ten gallon size enclosure (20x10x12 inches). A cage amounting to ¾ square foot per foot of snake is what will be needed as an adult. Shelves can and should be used to increase floor space and allow somewhere to "go" when active. A shelf also allows a warmer basking site, while forming a cooler area underneath.

Substrate - The substrate of the habitat should be easy to maintain. I have tried bark etc and frankly these snakes can crap up a storm. The best bet is just clean linoleum, plain paper or astroturf.

Habitat - Provide a hiding place. A half-log is available at pet stores. An empty cardboard box or upside-down plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used when the red tailed boa is young. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to hide its entire body inside; if you start with a small one, you will need to eventually replace it as your snake grows. Red tail boas prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the tank or cage

Temperature - . The ambient daytime air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between 82-90 F, with a basking area kept at 90-95 F. At night, the ambient air temperature may be allowed to drop down no lower than 78-85 F. Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a temperature about 20o higher than the air temperature may be used inside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required for the basking area, or ceramic heating elements which can be put into regular light sockets and radiate heat downward.

Lighting - No special lighting is needed. Red tail boas are nocturnal snakes, spending their days in the wild securely hidden away from possible predators. To make it easier to see your boa during the day, you can use a full-spectrum light or low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day. Make sure the snake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs.

Water - provide a dish large enough for the snake to soak in. I use the bottom of a cat litter box. Soaking is especially important during sheds. Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat).

Recommended Supplies:

Habitat with secure lid Thermometer Light timer Misting bottle

Substrate Incandescent light or ceramic heater Book on boa constrictors

Habitat Maintenance Change water daily remove droppings. Thoroughly clean the tank at least once each week: set boa aside in a secure habitat - a snake/reptile bag works well; scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water, removing all smell of bleach; dry the tank and furnishings; and add clean substrate

Grooming and Hygiene When cleaning housing, check boa for any abrasions, signs of parasites or or fungal infections. Always wash your hands before and after touching your snake or habitat contents to help prevent Salmonella and other infectious diseases

Captive Breeding Status - Sexing a Red tail boas is relatively easy. Like all pythons and boas, they have anal spurs. These claw-like structures are about 2" - 3" from the tip of the tail. Males have longer spurs than females. The spurs are thought to be evolutionary remnants of hind legs. Males also tend to have smaller heads than females. Mating usually requires a mild cooling or partial hibernation period. These snakes are live bearers Their gestation period can range from four to six months. The litters are large with up to 30 babies, each about 24 inches (61 cm)

Signs of a Healthy Pet:

Clear eyes Clear nose and mouth Active and alert

Eats regularly Healthy skin

Common Health Issues and Red Flags:

Vomiting Discharge in nose or mouth Lethargy

Abnormal feces Decreased appetite Cloudy eyes

If you notice any of these signs, please contact your exotic animal veterinarian.

As with all pets in this category, it is important that you find a veterinarian that practices in EXOTICS – this is critical. The typical small animal practitioner may not have sufficient knowledge in this area. Even this guide is general in nature and should not be used to diagnose your pet.